lundi 30 mars 2009

Comment réaliser de beaux et de bons macarons - Trucs et astuces de Thierry Mulhaupt


Samedi après-midi, j'ai vécu un grand moment de béatitude gourmandissime en suivant un cours sur les macarons présenté par Thierry Mulhaupt, le grand pâtissier alsacien au palmarès impressionnant : meilleur pâtissier de France, meilleur pâtissier international à Barcelone, premier prix des Olympiades de la gastronomie à Francfort... Quel régal pour les sens (et pour mes petits neurones d'aspirante pâtissière) ! Seul léger bémol : au bout de 4 heures à palper le macaron, j'avais l'impression de m'être moi-même transformée en macaron peut-être à cause de l'odeur qui m'enveloppait, des chucculents macarons ingurgités ou encore de mes vêtements délicatement tachés de pâte à macaron (ben oui, délicatement... elle est délicate la pâte à macaron, pas comme de la boue tout de même... mes vêtements en auraient redemandé si je leur parlais... gourmande certes, mais pas cinglée non plus ;-))) ! Il est par contre réellement incontestable qu'il est plus alléchant d'être un macaron qu'un pot de moutarde, même de Dijon, si tant est qu'on trouve encore de la moutarde à Dijon mais ça, c'est une autre histoire... Le débat consiste maintenant à savoir s'il vaut mieux fabriquer des macarons ou des lapins en chocolat pendant une après-midi, et je vous assure qu'il y a là matière à doctriner pendant des heures. Des amateurs ? Bref, je m'égare...

TM nous a livré ses bottes secrètes (très jolies, taille 45) et dans ma grandeur d'âme, je m'apprête à les partager avec vous, avant de vous livrer, au cours d'un prochain billet, la recette des précieux macarons en question. En toute honnêteté, je crois que niveau concurrence, TM ne risque pas grand chose de ses apprentis élèves (pour le moment) lesquels ont certes produit de jolies pièces (c'est le printemps, z'avez pas vu ?) mais avec l'aide de pros, avec de la pâte à macarons de pros et des ganaches de pros. J'imagine que pour produire de beaux macarons (plusieurs plaques au contenu identique, s'entend bien), il faut s'entraîner comme des bêtes pendant des mois à raison de plusieurs heures par jour... Mais on peut s'approcher du Graal avec de l'entêtement et espérer épater peu à peu son ego... et ses proches ;-) ! Je vous conseille d'ailleurs d'apprendre à pocher comme un chef (avec le bras gauche dans le dos, des petits tas tous identiques à intervalles réguliers, les yeux fermés ou presque) : ça vous assure un prestige immédiat et des Wouah non réprimés. En tout cas, le goût est là et avec ces quelques astuces, votre côte de popularité sera au taquet pour de longs mois.


Les bons ingrédients pour réussir les macarons parisiens

Il s'agit ici de réaliser des petits macarons parisiens traditionnels, c'est-à-dire deux coques réunies par une ganache ou une gelée de fruits. Les ingrédients de base pour réaliser ses petits biscuits sont le sucre, la poudre d'amande et les blancs d'oeufs. Le macaron est une meringue à l'amande, tout simplement. Petite présentation desdits ingrédients :

Le sucre : il faut du sucre cristal pour préparer un sirop qui servira à lisser les blancs d'oeufs (c'est ce qu'on appelle la technique de la meringue italienne).

Le tant pour tant : c'est un mélange constitué à 50% de sucre glace et à 50% de poudre d'amande. Il est facile de se procurer du bon sucre glace dans le commerce. Mais question poudre d'amande (blanche), c'est plus délicat. Les meilleures ont pour origine l'Espagne ou la Californie, mais ce pas grave si vous ne trouvez que des amandes du Kamtchatka ou de Pennsylvanie. Il faut surtout que la poudre soit bien sèche. En effet, certains fabricants proposent des amandes volontairement gorgées d'eau (elles sont vendues au poids, inutile de vous faire un dessin : c'est plus lucratif) ou involontairement humides (question de conservation, mais aussi de technique, car pour monder les amandes, il est de coutume de les plonger dans un gros volume d'eau bouillante). Pour assécher votre poudre d'amande, il est donc conseillé de laisser le sac de poudre d'amande ouvert à l'air libre pendant au moins 2 jours. Il faut absolument que la poudre soit sèche, sinon la meringue ne prendra pas et le macaron sera lamentablement planté. Autre remarque : la poudre d'amande n'est pas systématiquement moulue très finement. Il convient donc de la mixer pour obtenir une poudre extra fine (sinon la pâte sera granuleuse).

Les blancs d'oeufs : il faut clarifier des oeufs frais (séparer les blancs des jaunes) et conserver les blancs d'oeufs à température ambiante (dans une boîte hermétiquement close) pendant au moins 2 jours. Attention au poids des oeufs : les recettes sont exprimées en poids et non en unité. En effet, le poids moyen d'un blanc d'oeuf oscille entre 35 et 37 grammes (en pâtisserie, on part du principe que le poids d'un oeuf est de 50 grammes, ce qui correspond au poids des oeufs de calibre moyen). Or pour faire des macarons, il faut être précis : dire 3 blancs d'oeufs font 100 grammes mérite une rapide vérification par un recours à la balance ménagère. Petite précision pour les hypocondriaques : on ne risque rien en mangeant des macarons réalisés à partir de blancs d'oeufs laissés à température ambiante pendant 48 heures parce qu'ils seront cuits 2 fois (une première fois au cours de la réalisation de la meringue, une seconde fois dans le four).

Les colorants alimentaires : TM conseille de s'approvisionner en colorants en poudre. C'est nettement moins onéreux puisque qu'avec une pointe de couteau de poudre colorante diluée dans du liquide, vous obtenez plusieurs millilitres de quantité de colorant nécessaire à votre préparation.

Le bon matériel pour réussir les macarons parisiens

Un four : TM nous a donné la bonne température pour un four à chaleur tournante. En principe, il faut toujours adapter la température des recettes souvent donnée pour des fours à air pulsé, en la diminuant de 25° C en moyenne pour une cuisson à chaleur tournante.

Une balance ménagère précise au gramme.

Une thermosonde pour mesurer la température du sirop et de la pâte à macaron.

Un mixer pour obtenir une poudre d'amande très fine.

Du papier sulfurisé sur lequel on dispose les tas de pâte à macarons. Ils se décolleront très facilement s'ils sont suffisamment cuits.

Des plaques à pâtisserie plates (30 cm x 40 cm) : prévoir de ne réaliser qu'une trentaine de coques de 2 à 3 cm de diamètre par plaque et de ne mettre qu'une plaque à la fois dans le four (le traitement est différent pour des macarons individuels ou des grands macarons, la durée de cuisson doit être plus longue). Tout est question d'humidité et de traitement de cette humidité par votre four. Plus on met de coques dans le four, plus il y aura d'humidité dans le four. Cette humidité influencera la cuisson des macarons (qui sera plus ou moins longue) et peut même être fatale aux macarons (qui se fendillent inexorablement). Le sacrifice d'une seule tôle de macarons permet d'ajuster le temps de cuisson ou de déterminer si on doit légèrement entrouvrir la porte du four.

Une poche à douille pour pocher les coques (prévoir un diamètre de 2 à 3 cm par coque pour les petits modèles, de 5 à 8 cm pour les modèles dits individuels et de 20 cm au moins pour les grands modèles qui peuvent servir de base à un dessert à partager). Pour vous aider dans la réalisation de vos macarons au moment du pochage, il est possible de recourir à un modèle de gabarits pour macarons (clic). Inutile non plus de prévoir trop d'espace entre chaque coque : 2 cm suffisent largement. Essayez par contre de les disposer en quinconce.

Un fouet : pas manuel, malheureusement. Le must consiste à faire tourner son robot électronique si on a la chance d'en posséder un ou au pire, à jongler avec un batteur électrique, mais c'est déjà moins pratique quand il s'agira de verser le sirop sur les blancs tout en continuant de fouetter les blancs. Acrobatique certes, mais pas impossible !

Une corne ou une maryse pour macaronner la préparation, c'est-à-dire mélanger de manière homogène le tant pour tant et la meringue italienne. Il est inutile de prendre beaucoup de précaution pour macaronner la préparation : les blancs d'oeufs qui sont cuits ne risquent plus de casser. Le macaronnage permet uniquement de bien homogénéiser l'ensemble (ayez des gestes amples) et de rectifier les quantités le cas échéant.


Les bons tours de mains pour réaliser des macarons parisiens

Il y a plusieurs points délicats à surveiller lors de la réalisation des macarons :

Pour réaliser le sirop, utiliser un pinceau trempé dans de l'eau et passer sur les bords de la casserole afin d'éviter la cristallisation du sucre sur les parois, au début de la cuisson et en milieu de cuisson (ou quand vous le voulez si vous êtes super angoissé à l'idée de rater vos macarons).

Attention au modèle de plaque de cuisson utlisé pour réaliser le sirop : la cuisson sur une plaque à induction est très rapide, il est donc prudent de ne pas chauffer au maximum (sur position 10, si 12 positions sont prévues), car le caramel peut prendre au fond alors que la surface sera encore liquide.

Verser les quelques gouttes de colorant au moment de la réalisation du sirop.

Taper vigoureusement les plaques sur un support solide (pas une étagère mal montée, c'est très dangereux) une fois que les macarons sont faits : ce n'est pas une pratique vaudoue pour chasser le mauvais esprit de votre cuisine et vous garantir de parfaits macarons ;-) ! C'est pour bien lisser le dessus des petites coques et chasser les éventuelles bulles d'air de la pâte.

Faire croûter les coques : poser les plaques à l'air libre (sec de préférence, allumer la hotte si nécessaire, le fond de l'air doit être très sec) et attendre que l'on puisse poser le doigt sur le macaron : quand le dessus est bien sec (et doux comme du velours), le macaron est fin prêt à être cuit. Il est difficile de donner une durée pour le croûtage. 30 minutes est une bonne moyenne.


Un grand merci à Monsieur Thierry Mulhaupt et au chef pâtissier Laurent Schott de nous avoir fait partager un peu de leur savoir et de leur maîtrise. J'invite d'ailleurs tous ceux qui ont la possibilité de suivre un cours de pâtisserie de ne pas hésiter à le faire, c'est incroyablement passionnant. Si vous êtes intéressé par un cours de TM, c'est ici.

144 commentaires:

Rosa's Yummy Yums a dit…

Tes macarons sont sublissimes! de vrais petits bijoux!

Merci pour ces astuces! Je vais prendre note...

Bises,

Rosa

La Cuisine d'Helene a dit…

Ils sont extras. Je ne pourrais jamais en faire de beaux comme toi.

Julie a dit…

Merci pour ces astuces, je prends en note, un jour (bientôt j'espère) je vais me lancer moi aussi dans la réalisation de ces petites merveilles!

Dewi a dit…

Wow miette, they are beautiful. I love making this macarons as well. My family really like them, all kind of flavor, especially the one with hazelnut. My favorite is the pistachios.

By the way, did you have any chance to get my e-mail?
Cheers,
elra

Anonyme a dit…

Your macarons look gorgeous!

tallula a dit…

maintenant y'a plus qu'à !

Catherine a dit…

Ils sont très beaux ...moi aussi je note ces astuces ...

Kitchen Victim a dit…

Comme je t'envie ! J'aurais adoré suivre ce cours. Pour ma part, j'ai appris seule et j'ai encore des ratés sans que je ne m'explique pourquoi ( le macaron est capricieux ).
J'ai hâte de lire la suite de tes aventures macaronnesque !

Bises

Elodie

Sara a dit…

The macarons look perfect! I have always wanted to learn to make these, I think I'm going to try in the next few weeks.

petitegentiane25 a dit…

merci pour cette multitude d'informations ! si avec ça j'arrive pas à faire des macarons qui ressemblent à des macarons c'est que je suis une bille lol ! en tout cas tes macarons sont digne d'un chef pâtissier !

Chris a dit…

De pures merveilles !

Lucy..♥ a dit…

These macarons look amazing!! I have yet to try making macarons, something I must do soon ;-)

vibi a dit…

Ahhhhh! La chanceuse!!! un cours de macarons!

Pfff... j'en rêve! ...de faire des macarons, mais je ne me suis pas encore risquée! Je garde ta page, pour le jour où hummmm... je me lèverai du bon pied, qu'il fera beau soleil et chaud, que j'aurai mal nul part, que ma cuisine sera rangé, que je manquerai de rien pour les faire, que ...tout sera parfait, quoi!

Les tiens sont justement ça: parfaits! Bravo!

Ahhhhhh! La chanceuse!

(les chéchés) a dit…

j'ai justement goûté ses macarons la semaine dernière (pour la journée du macaron) et j'ai été un peu déçue... ils étaient un peu trop "mous" (avaient-ils pris l'humidité? la coque était vraiment trop fragile...) mais ces petits secrets sont une vraie aide, surtout pour celle qui ne les a pas encore réussis...
sinon, monsieur mulhaupt est charmant(on a patissé des tartes avec lui...)
merci pour toutes les jolies photos qui titillent la dompteuse en herbe de macarons...

Elyse a dit…

Miette, your macarons are just gorgeous!!

bloga2 a dit…

Ils sont vraiment réussis, je lis, je lis, je relis et je ne me sens pas encore prête à affronter le macaron !
En tout cas merci pour les trucs , peut être qu'un jour je me lancerai...

Parmesan et Paprika a dit…

Ils sont superbes!!! J'ai lu avec soin et j'attends la recette...J'ai fait un cours chez Lenôtre, c'etait epoustouflant hélas, rentrée à la maison, je n'ai pas osé les refaire au grand desespoir de mes proches... C'est le moment ou jamais vu que je suis à la maison..Merci :) Bisous.

Doria a dit…

Ils sont sublimes !!!!
Belle réussite !
Bisous, Doria

palaisdeslys a dit…

Et bien merci beaucoup pour tous ces détails qui ont sûrement fait que je rate les derniers...un épisode malheureux!!! Les tiens sont superbes!

chocolatatout a dit…

oh quelle beauté ! ils sont superbes ces macarons (tes florentins aussi au passage)

Aude a dit…

ils sont vraiment extra, le petit rose est vraiment parfait on a envie de le croquer !
Bonne journée

Flo a dit…

Si avec ça on ne les réussit pas ces fameux macarons ;-) merci !

mari de la dinette a dit…

yapas à dire,ça en jette un beau macaron !

Clem a dit…

Chouette, merci pour toutes ces astuces... Les photos sont magnifiques!

Ash a dit…

Oh.. these are beautiful!

trinidad a dit…

bravo pour tes macarons !!

ManueB a dit…

Zut je n'ai pas vu que T. Mulhaupt a fait un stage !!!! J'en ai déjà fait plusieurs avec lui et à chaque fois, j'y apprends pas mal de trucs. En plus il est super sympa !
Manue

Audrey de FLAGRANTS DÉLICES by tambouillefamily a dit…

sont beaux tes macarons, moi j'avais pris des cours de macarons avec Cuisine Aptitude, et j'osais pas réaliser de meringue italienne avec mon pauvre batteur électrique, mais je pense qu'en ayant mon chéri, réquisitionné pour ajouter mon sirop pendant que je monte la meringue ... car j'ai testé la meringue française, c'est pas mal mais pas aussi bien que l'italienne, les macarons sont plus lisses, plus brillants ...
Les tiens sont tout simplement magnifiques !!!!!! j'en croquerai bien un bout !
bises @+

noufi a dit…

Ils sont très bien réussis et mille mercis pour tous ces astuces

manu a dit…

je prend note de tous ces petits détails !!!!

argone a dit…

tous ces conseils sont très judicieux et apparemment tu as bien retenu les leçons de ton cours !

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talonshautsetcacao a dit…

des macarons renversants. Merci pour tous ses conseils

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